If the hole does not drain within 3 to 4 hours during the first and second water filling, your soil won’t likely drain well enough to support a fruit tree. If your hole drains completely in less than 3 hours, the soil may be too sandy. To improve this, add organic matter to the soil. Soil that drains poorly can be improved with a drainage system, planting mounds, or raised beds. [1] X Research source
French drains are a kind of underground drainpipe installed to improve drainage. Once they’re put in and the grass regrows, they’ll be all but invisible. [2] X Research source Generally, French drains are installed by digging a sloping trench through areas of poor drainage to a drainage area. A drainage pipe and coarse backfill, like gravel, are inserted in the trench, then covered with dirt. [3] X Research source
Rent or buy a rototiller from your local home or garden center to easily mix compost into your existing soil. After mixing in organic materials thoroughly, test the soil drainage again (water should drain in 3 to 4 hours). The amount of organic materials you’ll need to add to the backfill will depend on the severity of your drainage problems.
Mounds are made by backfilling soil into holes to create a gentle slope rising to the tree in the center. The tree’s soil line should be 6 to 12 in (15. 2 to 30. 5 cm) higher than surrounding soil. For mounds that are 6 in (15. 2 cm) high, you should also use a width of at least 2. 5 ft (. 76 m). For mounds that are 10 or 12 in (25. 4 or 30. 5 cm) high, use a width between 3 and 4 ft (. 9 and 1. 2 m). Avoid making steep slopes with your mounds. Gentle slopes will prevent the soil from eroding. [4] X Research source
Holes for trees, generally, should be double the width of the roots. The depth shouldn’t be greater than the root ball, except when the soil is really compacted, then you’ll want a little extra room. If you notice a lot of clay while breaking up the soil in the planting site, use a shovel to cut channels into the sides of the hole. This will encourage outward root growth. [6] X Research source
Also, shoot for dry conditions when testing your soil. Moisture in your sample can sometimes throw readings off. [7] X Research source If you live in a part of the world where your growing season doesn’t start in spring and end in fall, perform your test instead at either the start or end of your growing season.
Similarly, wash, clean, and dry a bucket for harvesting samples. Lay out some newspaper on a flat surface in an out-of-the-way location. This is where you’ll set out samples to dry. [8] X Research source
Harvested soil goes right in the bucket. When you’ve harvested all your samples, mix them together. When the soil is well mixed, lay it out on the newspaper you prepared earlier to dry. When necessary, use the sample container that came with your kit to collect the required amount of soil (usually, it’s about a pint). pH tests often only require you to add a reagent to a sample. The interaction between the sample and reagent should create a vivid change in color, indicating the pH level according to the kit’s pH color chart. [9] X Research source
Unfortunately, most of the eastern half of the US has acidic soil. This doesn’t necessarily mean your soil won’t support fruit trees, but it may benefit from being amended with limestone. [10] X Research source
Soil conditioners are available at most hardware stores and home centers. Try Sphagnum peat moss as an organic alternative. If you have access to compost materials, apply these regularly to decrease alkalinity. Take readings as you balance to make sure you don’t make the soil too acidic. [11] X Research source
Fertilize from the top of the soil after the first pruning of the season and as close before budding as possible. If you tree starts budding sooner than expected, you can still fertilize up through June. Late summer and fall will put trees at risk of frost damage. [13] X Research source
