Cutting above the “ring of buds” creates a weak point and promotes uneven spacing between newly grown shoots.
Never remove all of the branches, as these horizontal shoots will eventually form the tree’s primary scaffolding. [2] X Research source
Pinch off any leaves with your fingers during pruning. [4] X Research source Continue to cut the horizontal shoots below your initial cut into the second year. Once your tree begins to bear fruits—which should happen in the second or third year after planting—you can move on to fruiting pruning procedures.
Weights should be heavy enough that they pull the branches into a horizontal position, but not so heavy that they curve downward. [5] X Research source For best results, leave weights attached for approximately 3 months.
Use lopping shears for large branches up to 50 millimetres (2. 0 in) in diameter. Avoid pruning the sides of the tree when possible.
Keeping a modest tree height improves flowering and, in turn, fruit production.
Leaving a few vertical branches is fine if you have enough horizontal branches to provide support (around 3 to 4 primary limbs). Your mango trees should have a solid, fully formed structure after 3 years.
Continue this procedure through the second year and then stop.
Use pruning saws for branches and trunks up to 150 millimetres (5. 9 in) in diameter. Avoid pruning after flowering—this can cause crop loss.
Cut the limbs right down to the trunk.
Take care to make a clean cut when cutting the remaining branch, as it needs to continue growing healthily.
Always focus on removing vertical branches over horizontal branches. [13] X Research source
Pruning paint isn’t a necessity, but it is recommended if there are known pests and diseases in the area.
