There are different types of Freon. The possible options are R-12, R-13B1, R-22, R-410A, R-502, and R-503. If you need to add Freon, you need to use the same kind of Freon listed on the label.
If a vent fitting is damaged, you can order a replacement from the manufacturer. Follow your specific model’s instructions to determine how you remove a vent. Usually they can be pried off with a flathead screwdriver or chisel.
You may need to remove the defrost drain hose from the service panel and soak it in hot water before reinstalling it.
You can solder aluminum pipes to fill holes or you can replace the pipe entirely.
Problems with the Freon can cause other problems in your fridge. It is possible that the frozen coils, leaky pipes, or blocked vents are symptomatic of a larger problem with your Freon lines.
You can order a replacement from your manufacturer and install it yourself by unscrewing the pipe that connects it to the supply line in the bottom of your fridge. Screw the new set of coils into the same port and ensure that they’re tight before starting your fridge again. Your coils may simply be dirty. Clean them with coil cleaning foam and paper towels if they look filthy. The dirt could be locking evaporation inside your freezer and it may be dripping down to the bottom of your fridge. Never use a different brand of evaporator coil in your fridge. They are designed to work for specific models.
You may need to use plumber’s tape to cover the threading on your replacement pipes and keep the fittings tight. If you see water, check your water lines. These are the pipes running from the frame of your fridge to the supply lines. You may need to use a wrench or channel locks to loosen a bolt on a pipe’s connection. Any pipe that runs into the frame of your fridge will require a licensed specialist to replace.
Let your pipe cool for at least 12 hours after you heat it. You cannot solder any pipes with flammable materials inside them. Freon is a flammable gas, so always check with your manufacturer if you aren’t sure about which pipe you’re soldering.
If you have a lot of food that will go bad quickly or can melt, fill a cooler with ice and store it in there to keep it cool.
The arrangement of the mechanical parts is different on every fridge. The location of your Freon lines will depend on your particular fridge’s make and model. On some fridges, the Freon line will be added to the suction line. On other models, it will have a dedicated pipe. The Freon line is almost always made out of copper.
The bullet-piercing valve comes with 2 adaptors. Use the adaptor that fits your tube size. Buy a bullet-piercing valve from a hardware store or refrigerator repair company. Tighten the valve with an Allen wrench.
The valve looks like the air valve on a car tire.
The compressor gauge has to be able to read pressure and Freon levels. It should have 2 gauges on it to provide 2 different readings. If the Freon level is in the blue section of the gauge, you have plenty of Freon.
If the needle is higher than 0 but under 1 psi, you’re fine. If the pressure inside of your system is higher than 1 psi, bleed some of the air out by opening the valve without attaching anything to it. Do this for 4-10 seconds and retest your valve.
If the Freon reading is within the range listed on your fridge’s label, consult a refrigerator repair specialist. The problem isn’t your Freon lines or supply. This is the same label that you checked to determine whether or not your refrigerator uses Freon. The label is sometimes on the back of the refrigerator.
You need to use the same kind of Freon listed on the label of your refrigerator. The possible versions include R-12, R-13B1, R-22, R-410A, R-502, and R-503. Some Freon tanks come with gauges so that you can tell how much Freon you’re releasing. If your tank doesn’t have one, you’ll have to use trial and error to get your fridge’s Freon levels within the appropriate range.
You cannot remove the bullet-piercing valve once you’ve installed it. If you do, there will be a hole in your suction line or Freon supply.
